Where to Eat in Ginza at Every Price Point

How to eat across Ginza's full spectrum, from grab-and-go basement counter meals to the reservation-only sushi counters that define Tokyo fine dining.

Eating in Ginza Without a Concierge or a Fortune

The common assumption is that eating well in Ginza requires a Japanese-speaking hotel concierge and a credit card with no limit. That is true for roughly a dozen counters that charge ¥30,000 at dinner and lock their phone lines to Japanese speakers. For everyone else, Ginza has hundreds of seats where you walk in, point, pay less than a movie ticket, and eat something the concierge crowd envies.

Structure your eating by access level, not by cuisine or neighbourhood. There are four tiers: the basement food halls where you grab a bento and eat standing up, the department store restaurant floors where lunch is a bargain, the standing bars under the train tracks where skewers cost pocket change, and the reservation-only counters where you still eat well if you know how to book. This guide tells you exactly what to order and what it costs at each level.

Ginza sushi counter
Mustang Joe , CC0 via Wikimedia Commons

Depachika: the Basement Bento That Beats Any Restaurant

Every major department store in Ginza has a basement food hall called a depachika. No reservation. No Japanese. No need to spend more than ¥1,000 to eat a meal that would cost ¥5,000 upstairs. Target these three: Mitsukoshi Ginza on B2F, Matsuya Ginza on B1F, and Ginza Six on B2F.

What To Buy And When

Bento boxes at Mitsukoshi run ¥1,000 to ¥5,000. Matsuya is cheaper: ¥800 to ¥4,000. Ginza Six tops out at ¥6,000.

The failure case is showing up too late. Mitsukoshi and Matsuya close at 20:00. Ginza Six closes at 20:30. Arrive between 19:00 and 19:30 to catch the discount stickers that staff start slapping on prepared food. By 20:15 at Ginza Six the shelves are bare. If it is 20:30 and you are hungry, walk to the Yurakucho yakitori alley under the JR tracks, ten minutes north. Stalls there run until 23:00.

Department Store Restaurant Floors: Lunch for the Price of a Coffee

The third to seventh floors of Mitsukoshi and Matsuya are restaurants. Dinner here is expensive. Lunch is not. The high-end sushi counters that charge ¥20,000 to ¥40,000 at dinner slash their prices to ¥3,000 to ¥6,000 at lunch. That is the single most practical thing you can do: eat sushi at lunch, not dinner.

The Lunch Price Drop

Kyubey Ginza charges ¥4,000 to ¥8,000 for lunch versus ¥15,000 to ¥25,000 at dinner. Sushi Aoki: ¥5,000 to ¥10,000 lunch, ¥20,000 to ¥30,000 dinner. Sushi Iwa: ¥5,000 to ¥8,000 lunch, ¥20,000 plus dinner. Even the famous names drop deep. Sushi Kanesaka lunch is ¥5,500 versus ¥20,000 plus at dinner. Sushi Yoshitake lunch is ¥8,000 to ¥15,000 versus ¥30,000 to ¥40,000 at dinner.

The caveat: these lunch counters still fill up. Arrive at 11:15 for the 11:30 opening. If the host says full, ask for the counter, not the table section. Counters have fewer seats but more cancellations.

After Midnight

If you cannot get a counter seat, Sushi Zanmai Ginza is open 24 hours and sells pieces for ¥100 to ¥500 each. The flagship is on the main street. Point at the photo menu. Do not expect Kyubey quality, but it works at 1am.

Tokyo restaurant alley lanterns
lumoplank , CC0 via Wikimedia Commons